The Leopard and the Sand River of the Mara

Peter and Helga arrived safely at Keekorok airstrip a little jaded from their long flight but ready to go as always. Their drowsiness swiflty departed as we bumped into 3 young male lions lying out in the evening sunshine on the short drive to Salas Camp located on the banks of the ‘Sausage tree’ lined Sand River. From that point on it just got better and better. I was a little concerned that the wildebeest would have moved out but this was certainly not the case. Over the next 5 days we immersed ourselves in herds of tens of thousands. It was spectacular.

We were the only ones in camp and the only ones on the Sand River. Everything we saw we had the luxury of enjoying all to ourselves. An absolute joy! Leopard really came out to play. Our first male sighting was full of excitement. We found him in the top canopy of an eleodendron tree unable to get down as a troop of baboons barked loudly and aggressively underneath. Scurrying around at the foot of the tree they were in a frenzied panic. Youngsters screeming and big males jumping up and down. Finally after a loud growl, the leopard descended stealthily and disappeared into the bush with the troop of baboon dispersing rapidly in all directions.

One of the highlights of our leopard sightings was a mother and cub, who we sat with for 2 hours as they lovingly nudged up against each other in the morning sun. We watched them eat a scrub hare, climb 3 different trees, jump across the Keekorok River and finally take a drink together, all within 20 yards of us. Truly fantastic! By the Sand River we found 5 other leopard also but with only fleeting views – a more usual sort of behaviour. Having done over 40 safaris this was a record for Peter and Helga and their smiles showed it!

We didn’t go short on lion either, with three different prides, one of which was camped right outside their tent for the whole stay roaring consistently at night, and many solitary females and males we saw our fair share. We were lucky enough to see two serval cats as well. The migration dominated most of our game drives as we cruised through thousands and thousands but we also saw plenty of elephant, big herds of buffalo, journeys of giraffe, all the other plains game that the Mara is famous for and three black rhino. Amazingly, on three of the days we saw the Big Five! We also had great weather and some beautifully stereotypical expansive African skies.

Sadly we leave the Sand River tomorrow and head up to Mara North Conservancy. A different area and landscape but hopefully just as good as the incredible Sand River.